Little did Nathan Clark, the great-grandson of James Clark, founder of C&J Clark, a.k.a. Clarks shoe company, realize that the shoe he began sketching in the mid-1940s would go on to attain forever-cool status, becoming a closet staple in both men’s and women’s wardrobes worldwide. A style that trendsetters like Steve McQueen, Bob Dylan, Liam Gallagher, Anthony Bourdain (who was quoted in Men’s Journal describing them as the “most comfortable shoes on Earth”), and Sarah Jessica Parker have worn. Even Manolo Blahnik is reportedly a fan. Macro speaking, the Clarks Desert Boot has been adopted by Mods, Beatniks, Rude Boys, Hip Hoppers, and Coders over the years. Estimates, made in 2011, put sales north of 10 million pairs, sold in more than 100 countries. What’s more, London’s Design Museum, in 2009, named it one of the “Fifty Shoes that Changed the World.”
The OG: Desert Boot in sand suede.
Back then, though, Clark was stationed in Burma when his brother, Bancroft, who was recently appointed CEO, wrote him a letter asking if he had any inspiration for footwear designs while on his travels. Nathan was particularly taken with the footwear favored by the off-duty officers of Britain’s Eighth Army, who were having shoes made for them in Cairo’s fabled Old Bazaar before travelling to Burma. These simple ankle boots featured an upper constructed of rough suede atop a crepe sole designed especially to weather the unforgiving conditions of the Egyptian desert. The officers saw the advantages of the boot’s lightweight, breathable, flexible, and unstructured construction, which were ideal for fighting in the Sahara as opposed to the heavy, stiff, and hot leather military boots of the time.
Nathan tweaked the basic design and sent his sketches back to Bancroft in Somerset, England. Thus, a style icon was born, right? Well, as Clarks lore goes, the prototype wasn’t deemed a home run. In fact, the Clarks Stock Committee turned up its nose at the neutral beige-grey suede sample and dismissed the idea, stating “it would never sell.”
Nathan disagreed. In 1949, he introduced the style at the Chicago Shoe Fair, transforming the booth into a desert oasis complete with tons of sand, belly dancers, and the Desert Boot presented on a silk pillow like a priceless artifact. Think Indiana Jones level intrigue and fanfare. Nathan was equal showman and designer, helping layout the framework for countless new brand and shoe introductions in the decades that followed.
The elaborate staging along with the Desert Boot’s clean silhouette and heeled crepe sole caught the eyes of buyers and fashion editors. Crepe was mainly used on sandals back then, so this was a different look, as most soles were made of leather and, during the war, some wood was even used. One editor in particular, Oskar Schoeffler of Esquire, featured the style prominently, complete with color photographs, in an early 1950 issue. He saw the boot’s potential international appeal and, more importantly, a void the style could fill in a burgeoning casual fashion landscape.
The Desert Boot became an instant hit in the U.S., long before the style was even available in the UK. Tim Crumplin, business archivist at the recently opened Shoemakers Museum that celebrates 200 years of Clarks shoes in its home base of Somerset, England, says the appeal among Americans coincided with post-WWII’s emerging social, economic, and cultural trends. “Wartime experiences prompted military personnel to adopt attire they’d worn in service and off duty,” he says. “Returning to civilian life, they retained items that offered superior comfort and practicality. Desert Boots became part of that tendency for less restrictive dress attire, like chinos, jackets, and T-shirts, which replaced formal wear in social circles.” Crumplin adds that the adoption in America was also facilitated by a postwar economic boom that supported consumerism, promoted by music/teenage culture and distributed globally by the dominance of American media. “Markets like the UK consequently followed, winning over consumers with the practicality, durability, and versatile nature of the boot. It was marketed to them as being ‘Inspired by the Army, it is both light and comfortable in its new role of civilian service,’” he says.
Clockwise from top left: OVO, Frank Pellegrino, Bape, Levi’s, CNCPTS, and Disney collabs.
Successive generations and various subsets within them adopted the Desert Boot over the ensuing decades. In the 1950s, it was the U.S. collegiate crowd, which lasted for many years. Crumplin says a fondness for the style in Jamaica also took root that decade, which underpinned the acceptance of it amongst Mod culture in the 1960s as the group had an affinity for the Jamaican Diaspora’s music and culture. Parisian youths manning the barricades during the May Events uprising in 1968 also wore Desert Boots as part of their antiestablishment uniform. And while the Clarks Wallabee was credited with opening new markets for the brand in New York in the late 1970s and 1980s as a style choice of Hip Hop fans, a steadfast trade for the Desert Boot amongst the city’s many Caribbean Islanders continued as it reminded them of home, according to Crumplin. The 1990s saw another surge in popularity as the Desert Boot coincided with Brit Pop explosion led by Oasis. Soon after, the style was adopted by tastemakers in Japan who had a thirst for authentic products manufactured using original materials. In the 2010s, there was a push for menswear to modernize, which spanned Selvedge denim and heritage styles, that led to an increase in the style’s popularity.
Long, rich history short, Crumplin describes the Desert Boot as a “simple, timeless, clean silhouette that isn’t explicitly gendered, is free from embellishment, and is a heritage product that’s neither casual nor formal, with utilitarian qualities that mean it’s not overtly branded, is comfortable, and has historically offered a broad appeal.” Also, it’s just a really cool-looking shoe.
Longtime purveyor of all things cool, Tarek Hassan, owner/founder of the Boston-based CNCPTS streetwear boutique chain, describes the Desert Boot as the kind of shoe that doesn’t chase trends, it sets the tone. “The Desert Boot’s longevity is a testament to thoughtful design, premium craftsmanship, and a style that adapts without ever compromising its roots,” he says. “It’s versatile, global, and personal all at once. That’s rare.”
Cncpts and Clarks have been longtime collab partners on several of the brand’s Originals styles. In 2013, the duo focused on the Desert Palmer style, which was released in two rich colorways of burgundy and teal. “It stood out thanks to the premium Italian suede uppers, metal eyelets, waxed cotton laces, and gold foil-embossed insoles,” Hassan recalls, adding, “We also made a few subtle but intentional design updates, most notably replacing the traditional stacked heel with the flat crepe sole from the Desert Trek style and adding an extra lace eyelet to tweak both the look and the fit. Every detail was about elevating the classic while still respecting the original.”
Danny Waserstein, owner of Shoe Gallery in Miami, has been selling Clarks Desert Boots since the 1990s. He gives the style high praise. “Of all the footwear designs from the past 75 years, only a handful can truly be called timeless icons,” he says. “The Desert Boot belongs in that rare group because it’s simple, versatile design crosses generations and trends. From the schoolyard to adulthood, it’s a shoe that signals heritage, quality, and an understated cool.”
Shoe Gallery’s strong Caribbean customer base reveals how the Desert Boot is deeply woven into that culture, especially among Jamaicans. “The Desert Boot became a true status symbol there,” Waserstein says. “Students were required to wear dark shoes, often black or brown, with their school uniforms, and the Desert Boot became the choice that stood out. For many, it was their first sense of style authority, and over time that look grew into a badge of authenticity that carried into adulthood.”
Nick English, founder of Stridewise.com, a blog devoted to men’s footwear, describes the Clarks Desert Boot as a “gateway shoe” to adulthood. “Once you get a little older, you want to wear something that has a little more quality, lasts a little longer, and is generally more respected for an adult to wear,” he says. “That’s where the Clarks Desert Boot—or, as Reddit refers to it, CDB—comes in as a casual entry shoe for young adults.” English cites versatility as a key to the style’s long-running success. “The flexibility, lightness, and shock absorption of that crepe sole are a big part of the appeal,” he says. “Combine that with the unstructured, full-grain suede upper with only a couple of eyelets—it just comes together as a shoe that doesn’t grip the foot as aggressively as a lot of other shoes, even the average sneaker. It’s so light you can barely feel it on your feet.”
Whenever Hassan and Waserstein see someone sporting Desert Boots it projects a distinct style statement. Says Waserstein: “It tells me they value the timeless essentials, the foundational pieces that started it all. They understand that great style begins with the basics, and they appreciate designs that have proven themselves over decades.” Adds Hassan: “It tells me they know what they’re doing. There’s a quiet confidence to someone in Desert Boots. It’s classic with intention. Whether they’re dressing it up or down, they’re tapping into a heritage piece that’s always in the right place, whether it’s a street corner or a design studio. It says they value quality, but they’ve also got taste.”
Waserstein likens the Desert Boot to the Range Rover: “You know you’re investing in craftsmanship, heritage, and a product that has proven value. That’s why the Desert Boot has never just been about fashion. It’s about identity, respect, and knowing you have something that lasts. That’s what keeps it relevant 75 years later.”
The post Style Oasis appeared first on Footwear Plus Magazine.
