Dingo
There were 800-plus brand stories on display at the recent Atlanta Shoe Market, proving yet again that this is the destination for the broadest trade show assortment the industry has on offer—by far. The show also hosted the largest gathering of retailers, across all tiers, of any trade show—also by far. So, opportunity knocked, even if it was impossible for buyers to hear every one of those stories. But, for exhibitors, to paraphrase Jim Carrey in Dumb and Dumber: “So, you’re telling me there was a chance.”
And that’s exactly why the industry once again descended on Atlanta: to tell and sell. Reports varied on overall buyer attendance, which ranged from robust (up six percent over last August, according to show organizers) to a little light. With regard to the latter, there are fewer retailers overall and the cost of travel is currently exorbitant. Those are cold, hard facts.
“There may be fewer retailers overall, but Atlanta continues to bring together an extraordinary cross-section of the footwear industry—from independent retailers to major accounts, along with key wholesale executives and decision-makers,” says Laura O’Brien, show director. “The quality and depth was there. Most importantly, people came to do business. Exhibitors met with buyers, strengthened existing relationships, and wrote orders. That’s what a successful market is all about.” In fact, several exhibitors told O’Brien it was one of their best Atlanta shows ever.
Of course, just because retailers are there doesn’t mean they’ll stop by. That requires effort. “We work months in advance to book our appointments,” says Sam Spears, president of Ara NA. “Our reps put the necessary leg work in. Relying on drop-ins isn’t a strategy.”
The hard work paid off as Spears reported 30-plus appointments on day one and a busy day two. “Everyone showed up, which is phenomenal,” he says. Buyers were greeted with a bee-themed booth, which played off the mantra to “be essential to everyone.” The goal is to help retailers in the back half of this year and set them up well for next year. “We’re being essential, which includes the launch of our new B2B site that makes it easier for customers to do business with us,” he says. As for product, Ara debuted price-friendlier collections of sandals ($129-$159 SRP) and sneakers ($159-$179). “It allows us to talk to retailers who are averse to our $200-plus pricing,” Spears says, noting that it’s not designed to cannibalize existing business. “You can’t swap that with this. It’s got to be in addition.” And, on the higher end, Ara is introducing AL Edition, a premium leather dress collection, that tops out at $269. “We had a great response, which is a bit of a nice surprise considering the economy at large,” he reports.
The troubled economy was the talk of the show floor. It’s tough to even maintain sales when inflation is eroding discretionary spending on shoes. Layer on tariffs uncertainty and a world feeling the pinch of two hot wars and it’s tough to be optimistic. Marty Rose, distributor for All Black, believes it’s changing the overall retail dynamic. Notably, boutique customers are buying less and sticking to safe choices, department stores are offering more deals, and discounters are picking up customers. “The confident shopper will devote time digging through racks in TJ Maxx and Nordstrom Rack, because everyone is looking for ways to get more for less,” he says. “As such, many retailers are reducing the size of their buys and will come back for available stock if sales increase in the spring.”
Taos
As for what caught the eye of All Black buyers, Rose cites a new kitten heel construction on the Windsor mule group, block heel styles in pastel suedes, updates to its split-toe construction, and a “breakthrough” slingback sneaker. The response was enough to buoy his spirits. “Even with reduced budgets, customers were excited to see our new collection,” he reports. “They want newness and continue to come to us for styles they cannot find elsewhere.”
Newness was the mantra for Kevin Bosco, owner of Bos. & Co. He reports strong reactions to the namesake brand (a “good value”), Fly London (“boutiques love the new tile-inspired heels”), and the latest addition to the portfolio, Holster. The latter is an Australian brand founded in 2005 by a surfer. It’s water-friendly, lightweight, comfortable, and priced $40 to $80 retail. “It gets us into a different tier of distribution—spa, resort, and recovery in running specialty,” he says. “And some of our boutique customers might stock it as an attractive add-on purchase.”
The lead story at Dansko was seven new constructions that amounts to 70-plus styles, whereas last year it was just one construction. “Our bookings are quite robust because of that,” says Jim Kennedy, vice president of sales. “You offer newness and it can tun into lots of new orders.” The constructions include slides, sneakerinas, and wedge sandals. It was a directive of Dansko President Kitty Bolinger. “While we still sell a ton of clogs to healthcare professionals, teachers, etc., we need additional silhouettes,” he says. “This is the most, new constructions we’ve ever introduced in a season.”
Speaking of newness, Ecco’s Elevate collection for women received a strong reaction, reports Matt Feiner, CCO for Ecco Americas. The classic silhouettes, like low-wedge Mary Janes, block-heel pumps, and ballerina flats with contrast cap toes in elegant finishes, blend a sophisticated aesthetic fit for the return-to-office trend. Infused into that are comfort features the brand is known for that make the styles versatile enough for multiple occasions. “Retailers responded very positively to the visible comfort story and modern design,” he says, adding that the overall response to the entire Ecco line reinforced the continued demand for versatile, comfort-driven product with broad consumer appeal. “Retailers are placing greater emphasis on proven, core products while still looking for meaningful newness that can appeal to a broad range of consumers,” Feiner says. “There’s less appetite for highly seasonal or niche product and more focus on versatility, value, and longevity.”
Twisted X
John Pierce, vice president of sales for Genuins, a new exhibitor, can attest to retailers looking for newness. What was planned as an introduction and general feedback mission far surpassed those expectations. The men’s and women’s lifestyle brand, made in Spain, features anatomical cork footbeds and Leather Working Group leathers. “The response from everyone that slipped the sandals on was ‘extremely soft and comfortable,’” he reports, noting the brand is well-established in Europe, Australia, and Japan. “The spread of colors across the line was also recognized as well as the rich materials.” Pierce adds that Genuins is a fourth generation-run factory that has been making shoes for 85 years. The company owns the cork plantations. It’s a vertical business and environmentally aware. “Our pricing and terms are very retailer friendly,” he says.
Another first-time exhibitor was Woden. Founder/CEO Carsten Holm says one of the goals was to get a better understanding of how the U.S. market responds to the Scandinavian brand. So far, so good. “At first, I honestly wondered whether the excitement was simply part of the American way of welcoming new brands,” he says. “But the enthusiasm was genuine. People were excited about our story and what we can bring to their stores.” That includes sneakers, loafers, and sandals wrapped in bright colors and fun prints. “I believe the world needs color; there’s enough gray,” Holm says. The shoemaker believes the world also needs a responsible approach to design. That’s why Woden shoes feature repurposed fish skin leathers, a minimum of 10 percent recycled rubber outsoles, and cork footbeds. “There seems to be an understanding among retailers that challenging times require fresh thinking and new strategies,” he says. “You can’t do exactly what you’ve always done and expect different results.”
On that note, O’Brien says the February edition will feature improvements at the Cobb Convention Center that will make the experience better as well as a Super Bowl party at the close of the show in the Kennesaw Ballroom. More details to follow soon. “It’ll be a fun way for everyone to celebrate together after a great market,” she says.
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